Dublin has been home to and produced a disproportionate number of the English-speaking world's most important writers, poets and playwrights (Credit: John Piekos / Getty Images)

都柏林诞生了英语世界中众多重要的作家、诗人和剧作家。

Christopher Morash, Trinity College Dublin's Professor of Irish Writing, takes you on a tour of literary Dublin.

都柏林三一学院的爱尔兰写作教授 Christopher Morash 将介绍都柏林文学之旅的几个重要景点。

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"Where would I start?" said Morash. "I'd probably start with a pint."

“从哪儿开始好呢？”Morash说道，“我的话可能会先去找地方喝一杯。”

But where precisely, in a city littered with options? Morash favours McDaid's on Harry Street, one of Dublin's splendid Victorian-era pubs. "I think there is a period in Dublin literary culture that is centred around pubs," said Morash. "You go in [to McDaid's] today and there are still portraits of the writers on the wall… but otherwise the pub is exactly more or less as it was in the 1930s and 40s."

但是具体该去哪儿呢？毕竟这个城市充满了选择。Morash教授偏爱哈利街上的McDaid’s，这是都柏林维多利亚时代最辉煌的酒吧之一。“我认为都柏林文学文化中有一段时期是以酒吧为物理中心的。”Morash说，“现在的McDaid’s墙上挂满了作家们的画像……不过除此之外这家酒吧依然保留了它1930、40年代的样貌。”

McDaid's started its life as the Dublin City Morgue and was converted into, first, a Moravian Brethren chapel, then a grocer, tea and wine merchant before becoming a pub. Since then, it has counted Brendan Behan, Patrick Kavanagh and the cartoonist Flann Ó Riain among the literary luminaries who regularly pulled up a stool. But visiting Dublin's literary pubs isn't simply about having a quaff: "You have to be able to talk, you know?" said Morash. "Dublin is a talker's city still." Case in point: there's no music at McDaid's, just the sound of alcohol and (maybe) brilliant ideas flowing. "It has to be a pint of Guinness," said Morash. "In Dublin, a pint means Guinness."

McDaid’s最早是都柏林市停尸房，随后被改建为摩拉维亚兄弟会教堂，再后来又变成了杂货店、茶店喝葡萄酒商店，最后变成了酒吧。Brendan Behan、Patrick Kavanagh和漫画家Flann Ó Riain都是经常来此店光顾的文学名人。但参观都柏林的文学酒吧不仅仅只是来这儿喝一杯，“你必须来这儿抒发点什么，你懂吗？”Morash说道，“都柏林依然是个健谈者的城市。”举个例子来说，McDaid’s餐厅没有背景音乐，只有喝酒的声音和（也许）绝妙的想法。“绝不能错过来一杯Guinness黑啤酒的机会，”Morash补充道，“在这儿说来一杯就是来一杯Guinness。”

"I never turned to drink. It seemed to turn to me." - Brendan Behan 

Address: 3 Harry St, Dublin, D02 NC42, Ireland

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Best for getting your bearings: The Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI) 

MoLI hosts talks, book launches and readings, as well as frequently revolving exhibitions. The current Ink & Imagination displays letters and manuscripts from illustrious Irish writers like Edna O'Brien, Maeve Binchy and James Joyce, while today's working Irish writers can apply to use the museum's Writers Room; a light-drenched Georgian studio perfect for a tranquil writing retreat. "And the house that the building is in, Newman House, was where John Henry Newman was," said Morash. "[He] was the founder of what was then the National University of Ireland. So, it has historical associations as well."

MoLIna定期举办讲座、新书发布会和各类循环展览。目前的Ink&Imagination展上正展出Edna O'Brien、Maeve Binchy 和James Joyce等爱尔兰杰出作家的信件和手稿，而现今的作家们可以申请使用博物馆内的作家室。那是一个光线充足的乔治亚时代风格的工作室，非常适合宁静的写作和静修。Morash介绍说：“这座建筑位于纽曼之家内，也就是John Henry Newman的住所，他是当时爱尔兰国立大学的创始人。因此这个地方也颇具历史渊源。”

"Writers are always anxious, always on the run – from the telephone, from responsibilities, from the distractions of the world." – Edna O'Brien

Website: https://moli.ie/

Address: UCD Naughton Joyce Centre, 86 St Stephen's Green, Saint Kevin's, Dublin, D02 XY43, Ireland

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Just a few minutes' from McDaid's lies the walled campus of Trinity College Dublin with its iconic wooden gate. Founded in 1592, the university is the alma mater of scores of Irish literary figures including Jonathan Swift, Samuel Beckett and Oscar Wilde, whose birthplace on 21 Westland Row now houses the Trinity Oscar Wilde Centre, Trinity College Dublin's School of English. Despite its pedigree, the grass-and-cobblestone campus is perhaps most famous for its mesmerising Old Library, home to the Book of Kells. But Morash, who served as the university's vice provost for three years, gravitates towards the Graduate Memorial Building. "It's home to the College Historical Society, the oldest debating society in the world," said Morash. "It was founded by Edmund Burke, and members over the years have included Bram Stoker who was the auditor. Oscar Wilde was involved with the society." 

在距McDaid’s酒吧几分钟路程的地方就是都柏林三一学院被围墙围起来的校园，园门口则有其标志性的木质大门。该大学成立于1592年，是包括Jonathan Swift、 Samuel Beckett和Oscar Wilde在内的数十名爱尔兰文学名人的母校。后者的出生地现在变成了都柏林三一学院英语学院的圣Oscar Wilde三一中心，位于Westland街21号。这座学校有着悠久的历史以及由草地和鹅卵石铺就的学院地面，院内日久岁深的老图书馆更是凯尔斯之书的保存处。而在本院担任了三年大学副教务长的Morash则被研究生纪念馆所吸引。“这里是世界上最古老的辩论学会——大学历史学会的所在地，”他介绍道，“它由Edmund Burke创立，历来成员还包括了担任审计员的Bram Stoker。Oscar Wilde也曾参与了这个协会。”

"Education is an admirable thing, but it is well to remember from time to time that nothing that is worth knowing can be taught." – Oscar Wilde

Website: https://www.tcd.ie/

Address: College Green, Dublin 2, Ireland

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Best for making like Joyce and heading to the sea: Martello Tower in Sandycove

James Joyce loved immortalising his city in prose, but sometimes, even he had to get out of dodge. The charming towns dotting the craggy Irish coastline are a popular refuge for Dubliners, particularly Sandycove, the small coastal resort where Joyce spent six nights in 1904 in a 19th-Century Martello tower. "You could very easily hop on a DART local train and go out to Sandycove to Joyce's Martello tower," said Morash. "The opening of Ulysses takes place [there]. And the Martello tower is now kind of a Joyce museum."

James Joyce喜欢让他的城市在散文中永垂不朽，不过有时候他也需要有放松的去处。零散分布在崎岖的爱尔兰海岸线边上的迷人小城镇是都柏林人们的热门避风港，尤其是Sandycove，一哥小的海滨度假胜地，1904年，Joyce曾在19世纪的Martello塔中待了6个晚上。“你可以跳上DART本地火车前往Sandycove，从那儿出发前往Martello塔。”Morash说道。“Ulysses的开幕式也在那里举行。Martello塔现在基本算是Joyce个人纪念馆了。”

"I had a very happy childhood, which is unsuitable if you're going to be an Irish writer." – Maeve Binchy

Website: https://joycetower.ie/

Address: Sandycove Point, Dún Laoghaire, Dublin, A96 FX33, Ireland